I’d Say We Hit the Alaska Trifecta Last Week

Last week we saw four bears while on a walk, had a moose visit in our backyard and saw a bit of the Northern Lights.  I know Alaska is not everyone’s cup of tea, and winter is just starting, but so far Sal and I are loving this.

An Alaskan Nugget — Russian Alaska

When Sal and I were in Seward last month, we were kind of surprised to see a gift shop, The Russian Store, selling, you guessed it, Russian items.  Babushkas (nesting dolls), USSR military hats, old propaganda posters and ushankas (those warm but kind of funny-looking Russian-style hats).  We knew, of course, that the US had purchased Alaska from Russia, but hadn’t really thought too much about the Russia colonization of Alaska.  Here’s what I learned.

In 1648, Russian Simeon Dezhmev sailed through the Bearing Strait and landed in the Diomede Islands.  (Two small island approximately 2.5 miles apart.  Today, Big Diomede Island is part of Russia and Little Diomede Island is part of Alaska, and in winter, when the Strait freezes, it’s possible to walk from one country to the other.)  Russians in Siberia are aware of trade between Alaska, Chukchi and Asiatic Natives.

In 1725, Czar Peter the Great sends mariner Vitus Bering to explore beyond the eastern reaches of Russia and claim land for the Russian Empire.  He sails through the strait that now bears his name but doesn’t reach the coast.  In 1741, a second expedition reaches land in Southeast Alaska and returns to Russia with sea otter pelts.  Russian explorers and traders return and the mass hunting of sea otters for their pelts begins.  The Russian fur trading industry in Alaska is born.

Russian explorer Stephen Glotov in 1759 lands on Unimak Island and hears the Aleut natives refer to the area as Alyaska (Great Land), and that becomes the basis of the name Alaska.

In 1795, the Russian Orthodox Church is established on Kodiak Island.  Four years later, Czar Paul I signs a decree establishing the Russian-American Company to handle trade and administer Russian activities in American.  Headquarters and a fort are established in Sitka, which becomes the capital of the Russian Colony.

In 1824, Russia begins exploring mainland Alaska, over the next 20 years reaching as far north as the Yukon.  Russia establishes a southern boundary with the United States and a year later the eastern boundary of Alaska with Britain.  

In 1840, the Russian Orthodox Diocese was established for Alaska.  Missionary schools and churches were established, and Russian  liturgy was given in Native Alaskan languages.

In 1853, Russian trappers discover oil seeps in the Cook Inlet.

In 1859, Czar Alexander II decides to sell the Alaska colony.  The sea otter population had been reduced  and the fur trade was exhausted.  The Russian-American Company had no source of funds and was dependent on Russia for supplies.  Russia had just been defeated by the British in the Crimean War and needed the funds to protect itself.  Also, Alaska was hard to defend and it was thought it would be easily captured in any future war with Britain.  Russia approached both Britain and America.  Britain refused the offer and negotiations with America began.  America bought the colony in 1867 for $7.2 million (two cents per acre).

The Russian possession of Alaska had a devastating affect on the native population.  In 1741, Alaska was home to about 100,000 people, including Inuit, Athabaskan, Yupik, Unangan, and Tlingit.  Only 700 Russians lived in Alaska settlements at any one time, but they ruled harshly.   They brought firearms, swords and cannons to secure a foothold.  They took the children of leaders as hostages and destroyed kayaks and other hunting equipment to control the men.  And they brought diseases.  Smallpox, measles, respiratory illnesses, and influenza epidemics would kill untold numbers.  On the Aleutian Islands, Russians enslaved or killed thousands.  In the first 50 years of Russian occupation, the Aleut population plummeted from 17,000 to 1,500 due to a combination of warfare, enslavement and disease.  In 1867, only 50,000 indigenous people were left, as well as 483 Russians and 1,421 Creoles, descendants of Russian men and indigenous women.  

Today, many Alaskans who live in areas colonized by Russia still have Russian surnames.  Many Alaska landmarks still carry Russian names.  

Alaska has many historic Russian buildings.  Russian Orthodox Churches are in some 80 communities, many still using the old-style Russian Orthodox calendar, celebrating Christmas on what is January 7 on Western calendars.

Russia Orthodox Church in Nikolaevsk, Alaska, on the Kenai Peninsula.

This craft show was a cultural extravaganza

Last Friday the newspaper article began, “Thousands of people from every corner of Alaska’s islands, coastlines and riverbanks convened in Anchorage’s Dena’ina Center on Thursday for the annual Alaska Federation of Natives Convention.”  The AFN is the largest statewide Native organization in Alaska, whose mission is to enhance and promote the cultural, economic and political voice of the Native Alaskan community.  Sal and I were there Saturday, not for the convention but for the accompanying Native Arts and Crafts Show which is easily the most fascinating craft show I have ever attended.  The show is a cultural extravaganza.

More than 150 artists from villages across Alaska sell crafts typically made from plants and animals they have gathered or hunted.  We saw walrus ivory carvings; hats and gloves made from moose hide, the spotted white fur of harbor seals, and qiviut, musk ox wool which is insanely soft, warm and expensive; balms made from wormwood and other plants; birch baskets; and a $7,000 blanket of nine sea otter pelts which had been hunted by the artist with his two daughters and sewn together.  The most unusual thing I saw were earrings made from ermine fur, the entire ermine intact, head and feet included, which were so long they would hang past your shoulders.  I so wanted to take a picture but felt it would be disrespectful.   We did make some purchases, a print I liked, some notecards and a headband ear-warmer thing.  No earrings and no qiviut, but something qiviut is on my have-to-have list to get before I leave Alaska.  It will be one of my nice souvenirs of this wonderful adventure.

We talked with a lot of interesting people. The man Sal bought notecards from lived on one of the Aleutian Islands and said there are members of his tribe in Russia and how during the Cold War the two groups would join together in their boats to hunt, speaking the same native dialect so no English or Russian would be picked up by anyone listening in.  There was an artist there from the Four Corners area of the US whose father had been raised in an orphanage in Haines.  We said we would be visiting Haines next month, and she talked of how she loved it.  Her heart was there.  Sal and I thought how very different Alaska is from the dry, brown Four Corners area.  We saw the man wearing a necklace with the giant claws of a polar bear that he had killed outside his home in Northwest Alaska decades ago.  The artist pointed out the faces of her husband and daughter she had included in the print I purchased.  That was a sweet detail I will not forget.

Make no mistake, the things we saw, the furs, the beadwork jewelry, the carvings, while not what I’m used to seeing “down below,” were art.  The paper quoted one artist, the one with the polar bear claws, saying he expected to make $30,000 at the three day event.  He carves beautiful white ivory carvings, otters, walruses and other marine life from whale baleen.  Under the Marine Mammal Protection Act, Alaska Natives are allowed to sell Native crafts made from marine mammal parts.  They captured the animals’ playful personalities perfectly. I would have loved to purchase one, but they were out of my price range. 

We did take advantage of a photo area that had puppets of different Alaska animals.  I imagine it was set up for children, but after having a pleasant conversation with the group there, we were encouraged to pose.  So we did.  I chose a bear.  Sal, sadly with no moose option, chose an owl.

My trick for staying warm in Alaska

 It’s wintertime here.  It’s been in the 30s mostly but starting tomorrow looks like we’ll be in the 20s and the teens.  A couple snows but so far nothing that was more than just a dusting on the ground.  Days are getting shorter, too.  Sunrise today was at 9:05am and sunset will be at 6:19pm.

But no chilly complaints here.  I’m staying warm in Anchorage, for I have trained my family well.  I go sit in front of the fireplace and wait.  It’s never long before someone will come and turn on the flames.

I’m a happy boy.  Hope you all are warm and happy, too.

Cheney Lake and the Four Bears

 I’m leading with the bears because, wow, right?

We met our friend Arleta for a walk around Cheney Lake.  She had told us that mom bear and her three cubs had summered around the lake and were seen in people’s yards fairly frequently.  We passed a walker on the trail who warned us to be careful, the bears were up ahead, off the trail in the neighborhood.  We heard dogs barking and a man shouting “go away, get out of here.”  Arleta had us stay put while she ventured up the little hill with her bear spray.  And there they were. The above picture was taken with a zoom, of course, and we felt comfortably distant until mom noticed us and gave us a hard mama bear stare and lifted one paw.  At that point, there were about eight of us watching, and we all started back down the trail, frequently looking over our shoulders.  “Walk, don’t run,” one man cautioned.  We didn’t want her to chase us.  Never run from a bear, we’ve learned.  They can outrun you.  Mom did bring the cubs down to the path, but she led them across the path toward the water, not toward us.  It was more cool than scary, but a little bit scary.

In summer Cheney Lake has plenty of ducks and usually at least one pair of Trumpeter Swans.  Trumpeter Swans are our largest native waterfowl and the biggest swans in the world, stretching over 6 feet in length and are around 25 pounds.  They migrate south to ice-free waters in the fall, and most are gone now.  Sally has seen them, but I haven’t.  They mate for life, which is sweet.

Cheney Lake freezes hard in winter, Arleta said.  The city will drive trucks onto the lake, blow off the snow, spray water on the ice then smooth it out for ice skating.  We heard that is done at the University Lake and others as well.  I don’t know if we’ll skate, it’s been a long time and I’ve already broken one arm this year, but it sounds like a fun atmosphere and I’m sure we’ll check it out.

And speaking of check things out, look at me dressed for zero degrees weather when it’s only in the high 30s.  I have multiple layers, my snow pants, my long underwear, my new boots, ear warmers and my second-to-the-warmest winter jacket.  That’s my Fanny pack bulging out in front, not me.  I look a sight, but I was warm the whole time.  

Beside me is Arleta, our new friend.  She’s originally from Pulaski VA but has lived here over 40 years.  She saw our VA license plates and struck up a conversation.  We’re so glad she did!

Eagle River Nature Center: A Visit and The Newest Volunteer

Eagle River Nature Center (ERNC) is located 28 miles northeast of Anchorage in Chugach State Park.  ERNC is run by The Friends of ERNC, a nonprofit organization that runs the center, provides opportunities for natural history education, builds new trails and public use facilities and maintains existing trails and public use facilities.

BB and I decided to visit the community of Eagle River and the ERNC a few weeks ago (specifically Friday 09-30).  We left Anchorage late morning so we would arrive at the Matanuska Brewing Company in time for lunch.  Matanuska Brewing has a great Tomato Soup and Caprese Gilled Cheese Special (fresh mozzarella, crispy bacon, tomato, fresh basil, provolone on sourdough bread grilled crispy with garlic butter and parmesan) that we discovered when we come to Anchorage in June.  

We were almost disappointed, but our server saved the day!  The special we wanted was not on the menu.  We told our server that we were looking forward to the tomato and grilled cheese special; however, didn't see it on the menu.  She said, "No problem, we can do that for you!"  The Tomato Soup and Caprese Grilled Cheese was as good as we remembered.

After lunch we made our way to ERNC.  The Center is a scenic 13-mile drive from the brewery.  

When we entered the door we were greeted with "Let me know if you have any questions." I had visited ERNC's webpage and seen the page listing volunteer opportunities. It was the perfect opening for me to inquire about volunteering.  Tim was working the desk.   He had been a volunteer and now worked at ERNC.  He asked what type of work I was interested in doing.  I said trail maintenance and began to tell him about the work I had done on the AT at Loft MT.  Oh, was he excited!  He said I was exactly what they were looking for.  Needless to say that made me feel good!  Tim then told BB and I about different projects the volunteers were working on and showed us a garden, a set of steps and some railing that were the result of volunteer work.  I completed an application, returned it to Tim and was told to wait to hear from Gus, the Volunteer Coordinator.  We didn't meet Gus but we did meet Fjord, his handsome, well-behaved Husky.

It was a nice afternoon for a walk, so BB and I walked the Rodak Nature Trail.  This trail is a 3/4-mile loop with interpretive signage and two viewing areas, the Salmon Viewing Deck and the Beaver Viewing Deck.  To my dismay, we did not view any salmon or beaver.  We did see majestic, snowcapped mountains and a swift flowing stream.  And an interesting hollow tree.

 

Fast forward 21 days and I am driving to ERNC for my first work trip!   Gus had told me what to bring (work gloves, eye protection, ear protection) when and how long the group typically works (every Thursday, 9:30 to Noon) and the day's task (split wood, deliver wood).  BB made sure I had everything, (I almost forgot the thermos of hot chocolate!) and sent me on my way with encouraging words.

I was one of about 15 volunteers that showed up to work yesterday.  Gus introduced me to everyone and gave me some paperwork to complete and return.  Then he assigned chores.

One group was to use 2 ATVs with attached trailers to deliver firewood to the cabins and yurts.  Another group was to split logs using two log splitters. 
    Gus:"You know how to drive an ATV?" 
    Me: "No." 
    Gus: "Ever used a log splitter?"
    Me: "No." 
    Gus: "You willing to learn?" 
    Me: "YES!"  

I really wanted the ATV lesson yesterday.  Instead I learned how to split logs.  Paul was put in charge of training me.  He showed me how to start the splitter, line up the logs and all the safety things needed to keep from chopping a finger off.  With 2 splitters going we made a good dent in the pile of logs.  

Gus had told me that the group usually stayed and ate lunch together.  Not so much yesterday.  Yesterday only Paul and I stayed to eat lunch at a picnic table with a beautiful view of the snowcapped mountains.

As I expected, I enjoyed the morning outside working with others that enjoy the outdoors.

Sal

Views from the Rodak Nature Trail:

A Keebler Elf Tree!  Chocolate Covered Grahams, please!

Splitting Logs

Whoohoo! October 10 — First Anchorage Snow

 

Wednesday will mark two months that we’ve lived here.  The first snow was something we have been looking forward to.  I’m quite sure the excitement we feel now will be matched in March, or April or May, with the last snow fall.

But today, life is good.

Will We Ever See the Northern Lights?

The Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, were to be spectacular September 30 to October 4.  We check the Aurora forecast generated by the Geophysical Institute at the University of Alaska Fairbanks and the forecast for these five days is the best we've seen. 

Days with KP=4 have an average chance of seeing the Lights. Days with KP=5 or greater have a strong chance of seeing the Lights.  (KP is defined below.). Here is a section of the forecast copied from the Institute's site:

BB and I have been looking for nearby places to view the Lights since we arrived in Anchorage.  We ask people where they go to view the Lights.  We attended a program on the Northern Lights at the Planetarium at the University of Alaska Anchorage.  We talked about what to wear to stay warm while viewing the Lights. We did everything we knew to do to get ready.  The one thing we couldn't do was control the weather.

It has been raining here...a lot.  Raining enough to set records.  Rainfall as of end of September put this as one of the 15 wettest years on record.  The rain and clouds kept us from viewing the Lights.  

Click here for what we hope to see.

We still have time, but oh how I wish the past few nights had been clear.

Sal

From the Institute's FAQs:

The Kp number is a system of measuring aurora strength. The range goes from 0 to 9 (0 being calm, 1 very weak, all the way up to 9, which would represent a major geomagnetic storm with strong auroras visible). Anything Kp 5 and above is classified as a geomagnetic storm.

The Kp-index was introduced by a German scientist named Julius Bartels in 1939. The abbreviation Kp comes from the German "Kennziffer Planetarische," which translates loosely as “planetary index number,” although it is better known in English as simply the planetary index, and is usually designated as Kp [number from 0 – 9].